Gourmet chef creates sandwiches on the Southside
“It’s a dream come true,” says Chef Kenny Burnap as he shifts in his seat. I imagine this is the first time he’s had a seat today; it’s likely an unfamiliar body position for a chef running a kitchen. A million details must be pressing on his busy mind, but in the moment, he’s here with me.
That seems to be the life of an executive chef. Small moments of microfocus, seemingly unrelated to each other from the outside; small parts to make one synchronized flowing whole that is greater than the sum of its parts.
Greatness is not achieved through a few miraculous moments; it is created in the years of fire and sweat, scarred skin and missed holidays.
Kenny spent several years in the Pacific Northwest where he attended the Oregon Coast Culinary Institute.
“My dad was a professional fisherman on the Oregon coast. He taught me how to forage. On the coast it’s crazy, you can pick a bag full of chanterelles in no time, or go crabbing and come back with a bucket full of Dungeness crab,” reminisces Chef Burnap.
The PNW is a wonderland for ingredient-focused cooking. After several years of immersing himself in Oregon’s offerings, Kenny and his girlfriend moved back to Chattanooga.
“I asked my wife to marry me at Crabtree Farms. I stuck the ring on a piece of okra and surprised her,” he lets out a jovial laugh.
Kenny has lived a life of food. His history is abundant with gastronomic influence. He grew up with his grandparents where he learned to garden and can vegetables.
“We picked wild blackberries, made jams and cobblers. My grandpa grew squash and muscadines. They taught me a lot about nice foods and about the things you can control and do yourself. My extended family had a tobacco farm in Sweetwater. They had amazing gardens and produce. My Aunt Rosie would make biscuit bread and fried chicken. It was so good.”
Kenny glows with nostalgia as he remembers his past. It is no surprise that he has ended up where he is. He likely had little choice in the matter but to share his passion for food with the world.
Kenny’s Southside Sandwiches certainly is this chef’s dream come true. After he spent 11 years working at St. John’s, owner Josh Carter approached him about the idea.
“A lot of the time it was a joke. We’d have some nice Kobe or something with a lot going on. I would say: ‘I think it would just be great on a sandwich.’ I’m honored that Josh approached me about it. I couldn’t do it without my crew, especially FOH manager Julia Rox and sous chef Brandon Moore. I’m still trying to be thoughtful. Even if it’s simple, it can be good, even at a lesser price point. Why not make it as good as we can?”
There we have it, a chef with 11 years of fine dining experience opens a sandwich and breakfast restaurant. Now we all have what we didn’t even know we were missing in the first place.
“We make chorizo in-house. Hams, pastrami, case sausages, capicola. We always make bacon and breakfast sausage in-house,” Kenny continues.
I asked him when he’ll be selling his wares for customers to take home. He’s thinking about it. Let’s all take a moment to let him know we want it.
Kenny’s is open Tuesday through Sunday. Stop in for a delicious, fresh, seasonal meal to start off (or take a break from) your work day. You can order before you get there and pick it up on your way through. Kenny’s is a year in. Let’s make sure they are here for many more.