Our globe-trotting chef gives us the 411 on the good greens
Walking into the produce section of your favorite Asian market can be daunting and even a bit confusing. Unfamiliar fruits and vegetables with exotic-sounding names are usually surrounded by an even wider array of equally unfamiliar leafy greens. If you’re from the South, or have spent any time here, you’ve certainly eaten your share of turnip greens, collard greens, mustard greens, or even “poke sallet” if you’re a real greens connoisseur.
But the piles of greens in the Asian market can confound even the most astute Southern greens consumer. Like distant relatives at a family reunion—they look sort of familiar, but you don’t know their names and you’re not really sure if you’re going to like them.
Fortunately, the professional eaters at the Sushi & Biscuits test labs partnered with the various Asian markets in town to put together this guide to the most popular Asian greens available in local Asian groceries so you can walk in armed with the knowledge you need to tell your yu choy from your yam leaves.
Amaranth greens: Sometimes called Chinese spinach or en choy, this relative of beetroot is at its best simply stir-fried with garlic and salt. It has a delicate flavor that’s similar to spinach and pairs nicely with mint and meats like roasted lamb. Look for bunches that don’t have budding flowers, which indicate that they’re too mature and may be tough.
Gai lan: Also known as Chinese broccoli, this relative of Western broccoli is a favorite in Chinese cuisine. People who hate broccoli usually enjoy gai lan since it is sweeter and less bitter than its Western relatives. Eat the entire plant, even the stems, which have an addictively tender crunch when stir-fried. If you’re a fan of “broccolini”, pick up a bundle of gai lan for a much less expensive substitution.
Chrysanthemum greens: These aren’t your garden-variety ornamental mum, but are an edible species that’s only been adopted as a vegetable in China, Japan, and SE Asia. Chrysanthemum greens have a wild but subtle mix of tangy, herbal, bitter, and grassy flavors that need only light cooking (they turn bitter if they’re overcooked). They’re often used in tempuras, soups, sukiyaki, and ohitashi (blanched and steeped in dashi).
Malabar spinach: Sometimes called Ceylon spinach, this thick, fleshy-leafed plant is common in China but has just begun to get attention in the US. The leaves and young stems of this tropical vine are excellent in salads, steamed, or cooked in soups; however, when cooked, it has a sliminess similar to cooked okra. Malabar spinach has pepper and citrus notes when eaten raw but is similar to Western spinach when cooked.
Mustard greens: These very popular greens have a distinctively sharp and pungent bite, with some varieties even tasting reminiscent of wasabi. The strong flavor (and red mustard’s distinctive color) will be lost if overcooked. This versatile green can be pickled, steamed, braised, stir-fried, or sautéed.
Water spinach: This tall, leafy green, sometimes labeled as ong choy, has hollow stems and tender leaves with a mild, sweet, slightly grassy flavor with nutty undertones and a distinctive crunch that holds up remarkably well, even when cooked. It’s delicious with dried shrimp and chiles, but I’m partial to the classic Thai stir-fry preparation with garlic, red Thai chiles, salted bean paste, and oyster sauce. Pro tip: water spinach deteriorates quickly, so use it within a day or two.
Choy sum: Although it looks similar, the taste of choy sum is much sweeter and more tender than Chinese broccoli, with a texture that’s closer to bok choy. This leafy green has bright, slender, stalks with tiny yellow flowers and an earthy, slightly bitter mustard flavor that’s well suited for stir-fries or blanched with oyster sauce. Don’t overcook it—it’s best when it has some crunch. If you’ve noticed two long green stems on your wonton noodle soup—that was probably choy sum.
You may have noticed that I didn’t include bok choy, baby bok choy, Shanghai bok choy, or Napa cabbage. While extremely tasty, versatile, and mildly flavored, they are found on every Asian buffet and in every megamart produce section in the city. Let’s branch out beyond the bok choys and Napa cabbages of the world and cook up a mess o’ more flavorful Asian greens instead.
The internet is bursting with recipes for any of the greens in this guide, but I recommend recipes from actual Asian cooks, such as RasaMalaysia.com, TheWoksOfLife.com, or AppetiteForChina.com for truly delicious dishes utilizing these versatile vegetables.
Mike McJunkin is a native Chattanoogan who has traveled abroad extensively, trained chefs, and owned and operated restaurants. Join him on Facebook at facebook.com/SushiAndBiscuits