Our globe-trotting chef extols the virtues of the sublime green tea
Matcha is everywhere. It’s in our ice cream, it’s in our doughnuts, it’s in our smoothie bowls and even in our tea cups. But what is this mysterious substance that turns everything it touches an unnatural shade of iridescent green and why is it so damned expensive?
According to the dead-eyed Starbucks barista that’s been rigorously trained in the ancient traditions of the Matcha Unicorn Crème Frappuccino ceremony, matcha is simply green tea that’s been ground into a fine powder.
That’s technically correct—matcha is indeed green tea that’s been ground into a super-fine powder. But reducing matcha to just ground up tea is like saying coffee is just ground up seeds or diamonds are simply shiny pieces of squeezed coal—it’s a bit of an oversimplification.
The best matcha—and some would say the only real matcha—comes only from Japan, where very specific strains of tea are grown and harvested with a meticulous passion that borders on obsession. For example, Japanese growers build adjustable straw roofs over their tea bushes so they can mimic the natural shading of the original forest tea gardens in Toganooõ.
At harvest time, experienced tea pickers work shaded in darkness, selecting only the freshest top two leaves and top bud at the precise moment they are ready. These precious bits of the plant are processed (including removing the veins and stems) before a “tea master” will marry a variety of carefully selected teas with specific flavors, aromas, etc. to create his own special blend of matcha.
Quality matcha tea from Japan will contain nothing except tea. Watch out for fillers like rice and make sure your matcha says “tencha” and not “sencha.” Sencha is decent tea, but good matcha is made from “tencha.” If it says “sencha” on the package, then it is not matcha tea.
Ceremonial grade is the good stuff, and Yame matcha is considered by many to be the best of the best. Ceremonial matcha is meant to be drunk plain, without any sweeteners, dairy, and for the love of God, nothing that involves the word “unicorn.”
Be prepared for sticker shock when buying ceremonial matcha powder though. Good Japanese Yame matcha powder can run at least $30 an ounce.
Premium, or “select” grade matchas are not as high quality as ceremonial but are somewhat better tasting than the culinary variety. Good matcha is very complex on the palate—vegetal with a slightly sweet finish while simultaneously delivering mild bitterness alongside its earthy, umami-packed flavor. Lesser grade matchas will be less flavorful and more bitter than higher grade teas.
Finally, there’s culinary or basic grade matcha that is grown specifically to be mixed with other things, such as baked goods and desserts. You can make a cup of tea with this grade, but will need to use more powder and it’s going to be much more bitter. Culinary matcha is also far less expensive, but remember, you get what you pay for.
Making matcha is different than other teas you may have tried. Here’s a primer to get you started drinking matcha the way Myoõe intended.
1. First, invert the tines of your bamboo whisk (you really need one—it’s called a chasen) into a glass of water while you sift your matcha with your matcha sifter (furui) or a small, fine-mesh strainer. This will break-up the clumps and help you create a smooth, creamy cup of matcha.2. Using a traditional, bamboo scoop (chasaku), place two scoops of the sifted matcha powder into your tea bowl. Can’t find your chasaku? One teaspoon of sifted matcha powder will do in a pinch.
3. Bring a kettle of water to a boil, then cool to to 170˚F. Add 3 oz of water to the tea bowl.
4. Use your bamboo whisk (chasen) to vigorously, and I mean vigorously, whisk the matcha powder and water for 30–40 seconds to create a nice froth. Whisk the mixture vigorously (I said it again) from side to side making really fast “W” and “M” shapes keeping the tines of the whisk just below the surface of the tea and not pressing into the bottom of the tea bowl.
5. When nice small bubbled-froth develops on the surface, your matcha is ready to drink!
Pro tip: Be sure to clean the tines of your bamboo whisk immediately by rinsing them in water, then stand the chasen upright to air dry. Be sure that your chasen is completely dry before storing it.
Itadakimasu!
Mike McJunkin is a native Chattanoogan currently living abroad who has trained chefs, owned and operated restaurants. Join him on Facebook at facebook.com/SushiAndBiscuits