Blood sausage may sound distasteful, but it is so, so very good
I have a serious weakness for custard-like desserts—especially pudding. From panna cotta to crème brûlée; from rice pudding to classic Southern banana pudding, I have never been let down by the smooth, comforting embrace of pudding.
Imagine the confusion and heart-wrenching sadness that swept across my psyche when I first encountered what the British curiously call black pudding. Then imagine the terror that pierced my very being as I learned that black pudding is not a confection made with the finest European dark chocolates.
In fact, this centuries-old tubular concoction is neither sweet, nor custardy, but is actually a sausage made with pig’s blood, pork fat, oats, onions, and spices created straight from a Jimmy Dean fever dream.
Pro tip: A British “pudding” can be savory or sweet as long as what’s being cooked is boiled or steamed inside of something—a dish, a piece of fabric, or an animal intestine.
Created as a way to ensure no part of a slaughtered animal was wasted, sausages made with animal blood are appreciated for their nutritious, earthy flavors all over the world. Ireland’s drisheen, Korea’s soondae, Spain’s morcilla, Thailand’s sai krok lueat, and Estonia’s verivorst are just a few examples of how virtually every culture that eats meat has at some point slightly civilized their most Cronenbergesque urges and encased a fellow creature’s life essence in its own viscera before cooking and devouring it. I mean, who could resist?
My first encounter with blood sausage was the British version, which I fully expected to taste like licking a penny off a hobbit’s foot. I was shocked that this fried disk of darkness was not only surprisingly edible, but was in fact, delicious. The texture was similar, but slightly softer, than a typical American breakfast sausage and had all of the meaty, spiced flavor I love with none of the stomach seceding aftertaste I was expecting.
Instead of tasting like a freshly squeezed butcher’s apron, the flavor was more like a cross between an unctuous salami and good liverwurst—fragrant, spiced, and so flavorful you’ll ignore Biblical prohibitions, cultural taboos and the sprinkler system of fear chemicals your amygdale is spraying all through your body as you eat bite after delectable bite.
Still not convinced that blood pudding is for you? Stop into one of the city’s European Markets, pick up a tube of blood sausage and try it. I’ve given you a spectacular blood sausage burger recipe below to get you started. Don’t be the kind of pallid, quotidian cyborg that needs to be convinced to try new things. We’re all shuffling off this mortal coil far too fast, so take in as much of what the world has to offer as you can. Because if you don’t eat it, I’ll just have to have double.
Blood Sausage Burger
- 12 oz fresh blood sausage
- 1 tbsp fennel seeds
- 1 medium egg yolk
- 1/2 tsp tomato paste
- Salt & pepper
- 1/2 medium onion, minced
- 4 cloves garlic, chopped
- 3 cups bourbon
- 2 cups ketchup
- 1/4 cup tomato paste
- 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
- 1/4cup Worcestershire sauce
- 1/2 cup brown sugar
- 1/3 tsp Tabasco sauce
- 4 strips lean bacon, cooked
- Gruyère cheese
- 2 brioche hamburger buns
- Onion strings for topping (same ones you use for green bean casserole)
Remove the blood sausage from its casing and put into a medium mixing bowl. Add the fennel seeds, egg yolk, 1/2 tsp tomato paste, and a pinch of salt and pepper.
Mix well, then divide into two equal portions and shape into 1” thick burgers. Wrap the patties with cling film and place in the fridge to chill for about 15 minutes. Then remove from the fridge and let them rest at room temperate for another 15 minutes.
Quickly sear patties in hot oil for two minutes on each side, top with Gruyère, cover and set aside.
For the bourbon sauce, place the minced onion, garlic, and bourbon in a pan on medium heat and allow to simmer for 10 minutes until the onion is translucent.
Mix in the ketchup, 1/4 cup tomato paste, cider vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, brown sugar, Tabasco sauce and a two-finger pinch each of salt & pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes or until thickened. Strain if you prefer a smooth sauce.
Build the burger thusly: bottom bun > black sausage patty w/ cheese > bacon > onion strings > bourbon sauce > top bun
Mike McJunkin is a native Chattanoogan who has traveled abroad extensively, trained chefs, and owned and operated restaurants. Join him on Facebook at facebook.com/SushiAndBiscuits