The Mysterious Horchata

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Our world-traveling chef experiences a delicious Mexican beverage

The best part of eating cereal is drinking the milk that’s left over at the end. Every human—rich, poor, young and old, ritually lifts that morning’s phiale to our lips and partakes in the sweet, creamy nectar that lingers in the bowl like a gift from Dionysus himself.  

Although each cereal creates its own individual sacrifice to our gustatory perception, some of these natural libations are better than others. If you are one of the trailblazers who spent time hunched over a bowl of Jean LaFoote’s Cinnamon Crunch in the ‘70s, you know all too well that cinnamon-flavored cereals produce superior cereal milk. 

(Cinnamon Toast Crunch is inarguably the heir to the cinnamon-flavored cereal throne, but Jean LaFoote’s fought those difficult, early battles against Sir Grapefellow and Baron Von Redberry so let’s honor the forefathers first.)

Many years ago, my memories of cinnamon-flavored cereal milk unexpectedly flooded the dining area of one of Chattanooga’s first taquerias. As I approached the counter to order I couldn’t help but notice the huge glass container filled with milky liquid that was very popular with the Spanish-speaking regulars. I ordered a glass of this mystery beverage, sat down to wait on my carnitas, and discovered with my first sip the liquid perfection that is horchata. 

Horchata is a sweetened, iced beverage that is outrageously popular all over Mexico, Central America and Puerto Rico. Latin American horchatas have their roots in an ancient drink from Spain made from tubers called chufas or tigernuts. Be warned, however, that horchata made from tigernuts tastes like soy milk with a light Pepto-Bismol infusion and is usually served with a long donut-like pastry called (I kid you not) a ‘farton’. 

Mexican horchata, on the other hand, tastes like you’re riding a smiling alpaca in a refreshing, cinnamon toast dream. It’s a spectacularly delicious and a must-have accompaniment to any Mexican or Tex-Mex meal.

In Chattanooga, as in most of the US, Mexican horchata reigns supreme. Most recipes start with rice that is soaked, ground, strained and sweetened before adding cinnamon and vanilla. Some regional variations include nutmeg, allspice and occasionally fruit, but restaurants around the Tennessee Valley tend to stick to the basic vanilla and cinnamon flavors. 

Making horchata at home is easy, but takes a bit of planning ahead since it requires soaking ingredients overnight. Under no circumstances, however, should you buy a packaged mix. Prepackaged horchata mixes like “Klass” or “Clown” brand taste like weak powdered milk with a hint of chimney creosote and should only be used as snake repellant or toilet bowl cleanser. 

The following recipe can be used as a foundation to which you can add other flavors and adjust the sweetness. In Nicaragua and Honduras, for example, cocoa is commonly added; while in the Oaxaca region of Mexico they use a couple of spoonfuls of pureed prickly pear cactus fruit to cut through the richness of the drink.  

I like to keep it simple, but if I’m in the mood for a really rich and smooth horchata, I’ll substitute 3 cups of milk or evaporated milk for 3 cups of the water to make a smoother, creamier version that I rarely find in restaurants.

Provechito!

Horchata

Ingredients

• 1/3 cup uncooked, long-grain white rice
• 1 cup almonds
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
• 3 cups hot water
• 2 cups cold water
• 1/2 cup simple syrup (2 parts sugar, 1 part water)

Directions

Blanch the almonds in boiling water for about a minute and rinse under cold water. Once blanched, the almond skins should slip right off by giving the nut a little pinch. Let the almonds dry completely then toast them in a dry skillet over medium heat until lightly brown.

Grind the rice in a spice grinder or blender until it becomes a fine powder.

Add the powdered rice, almonds, vanilla and cinnamon stick to a large jar or bowl and stir in the 3 cups of hot water. Allow to cool to room temperature then cover and let stand at room temperature overnight.

The next day, blend the mixture with 2 cups of cold water for three to four minutes or until it’s creamy and smooth.

Strain the blended mixture slowly, a small amount at a time, into a pitcher using a strainer lined with three layers of cheesecloth (alternatively you can use a fine mesh tea strainer). Discard the solids that are left behind.

Add the simple syrup and stir until mixed thoroughly. 

Refrigerate. Serve over ice.

Mike McJunkin is a native Chattanoogan currently living abroad who has trained chefs, owned and operated restaurants. Join him on Facebook at facebook.com/SushiAndBiscuits