
Master Gardener Ann Bartlett tells us how ancient grains became popular in the 21st century.
Ancient grains are all the rage. One has to wonder why. What have they got that agriscience has not improved upon? Two of these grains, quinoa and amaranth, help explain why ancient grains are popular today.
Quinoa (pronounced KEEN-wah) and amaranth were staples of the pre-Columbian world. Both are members of the spinach clan. The grain comes from seeds formed in the flowers. Like spinach, the foliage is edible.
Quinoa Makes a Comeback
Are you keen on quinoa? If so, you’re not alone. Demand for quinoa—native to high, dry environments—has soared over the last decade. It remains pricey because ninety percent of production is from small farms in the highlands of Bolivia and Peru. (Colorado produces some quinoa, but the quality of the seeds is not that needed by food processors.)
Called the “mother grain” by the Inca, quinoa has been cultivated in the Andes for thousands of years. The seeds contain all eight essential amino acids, making them a source of complete protein. They are also gluten free, high in iron and magnesium, and have a low glycemic index.
The texture is similar to couscous and the flavor mildly nutty. It expands four times in volume when cooked, so adjust the amount when substituting it for rice in recipes. There are microwave ready packages available as well as selections with simple preparation instructions.
Amaranth Regains Popularity, Too
Amaranth, “the golden grain of the gods,” was a dietary staple of the Aztecs. When eaten with corn, it is a source of complete protein. It has twice the calcium of milk, five times the iron in wheat and is rich in vitamins A and C as well as potassium and phosphorus.
In pre-Columbian times, it was used as a cereal, ground into flour, popped, sprouted, toasted, and made into beer. The foliage can be eaten raw when young and cooked when mature. The leaves contain three times more calcium and niacin than spinach and are a good source of carotene, iron, and vitamin C.
Drought tolerant, heat loving amaranth sounds like a major contender in the effort to end world hunger. Why is it so unknown? It was widely grown in Mexico, Central America, and southern areas of our nation. The conquistadors wiped out all the fields they could find and outlawed growing it throughout their colonial empire.
Why? Part of the Spanish mission was to convert Indigenous people to Christianity. In one of their religious rituals, the Aztecs mixed amaranth seeds with honey and sculpted an image of a god. Each participant then broke off a bit of the image and ate it. Pagan ways had to go.
Amaranth in Your Garden
In spite of the conquistadors' efforts, amaranth survived as a dramatic flowering accent. Widely available, look for selections such as Love Lies Bleeding, Molten Fire, and Dreadlocks. Colorful Joseph’s Coat is featured in gardens at Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello.
Edible amaranth is also easy to find. Look for Hopi Red Dye, New Mexico, or Burgundy amaranth to grow something as striking to behold as it is delicious and nutritious.