Our traveling chef samples one of the world's most controversial dishes
Laying back on a bamboo mat, I stare out at the dreamlike reflection our bamboo hut makes on the rippled surface of Thailand’s Huay Tung Thao Lake. The shoreline of the lake is dotted with a dozen or more of these open-air huts, jutting out just above the water to create the illusion you are effortlessly floating on the surface.
Before the morning dew has dried, flirtatious Thai couples and excited families from Chaing Mai and surrounding villages begin to set up makeshift bars and picnic spreads on the squat-legged bamboo tables centered in each hut.
These bamboo cabanas are available to anyone, as long as you order food from the open-air restaurant nearby. Papaya salad, grilled fish and chicken, fried rice and noodles are all part of the standard menu along with standard social lubricants like Chang beer and Thai whiskey by the bottle.
Throughout the day, vendors will casually circle the lake’s edge selling fresh fruit, pickles and insects out of colorful baskets for those moments when you’re craving a handful of stir fried silkworms and pickled carrots to wash down your cold beer.
But there is a dish included on the menu, with no fanfare or warning, that’s known as one of the world’s more controversial dishes—Yum Goong Ten, or “Dancing Shrimp.” The shrimp aren’t dancing because they are getting lit at the club or because they are preparing to destroy the very concept of their dignity on DWTS. These decapods are dancing la danza de la muerte or as the prophet Bruce Dickinson calls it, “The Dance of Death” because they are about to be eaten alive.
This delightfully delicious, yet terrifyingly macabre salad is made by mixing tiny freshwater shrimp with seasonings, ground roasted chilies, cilantro, fish sauce, and a bit of onion. Lime juice is then squeezed all over the top just before a lid is quickly placed on the container and served with various greens and herbs like basil and water spinach.
Why the lid? Because the moment lime juice hits the shrimp, they begin to jump for dear life, banging against the sides of the container and generally freaking out in search of freedom from certain death inside your gaping maw. Once you’ve come to terms with your own willingness to place a still living creature in your mouth and chew, you grab a leaf of basil or water spinach, carefully lift the lid just a little, snatch some shrimp from their writhing, death-orgy mosh pit and shovel them in.
Once you manage to get the lively little critters into your mouth, you’ll feel a tiny tickle from their legs and antennae as the nightmare in Bikini Bottom continues on your tongue. The sensation and texture of goong ten is unique, but then the taste hits you.
Like most Thai salads, there is a complex, but balanced, mix of salty, sour, and spicy—but the incredible taste puts you into a state of flavor overload. Each individual shrimp delivers a mild burst of saltiness on your tongue, complimented by the light crunchiness of their thin shells, the contrasting flavors of the herbs, and the heat of Northern Thai dried chilies for a taste that is truly remarkable. It’s like the best ceviche you’ve ever had with an added crunch.
Although some consider this dish barbaric, to some Thai Buddhists the eater becomes the vehicle through which the spirit of the shrimp carries on in the world. It is said that “energy never dies; it is only transformed,” and because animal and vegetable must die in order that we may live, we strive to be worthy to carry on the spirit that has sacrificed its life for our nourishment at every meal.
Don’t be squeamish. Don’t be afraid. Just eat and don’t look them in the eyes.
How To Make Yum Goong Ten
Ingredients
- 1 cup small, live, freshwater shrimp
- 5 cloves garlic, sliced
- 2 stalks lemongrass sliced thin
- 2 tsp dried chilies, chopped
- 3 tbsp fresh lemon juice
- 2 tbsp fish sauce
- 2 tbsp sliced scallion
- 1/2 cup mint
- 1 tbsp chopped cilantro
- 2 tbsp sliced red onion
- 1 bunch of basil and water spinach to serve
Directions
- Wash freshwater shrimp very well.
- Mix garlic, lemongrass, dried chilies, lemon juice, and fish sauce together.
- Add scallion, mint, cilantro and red onion to the mixed sauce.
- Place freshwater shrimp in a big bowl with a tight lid, add the sauce, quickly seal with the lid and shake to mix well.
- Serve with fresh basil or water spinach.
Mike McJunkin is a native Chattanoogan currently living abroad who has trained chefs, owned and operated restaurants. Join him on Facebook at facebook.com/SushiAndBiscuits