Downtown renewal fuels energetic arts upsurge in coastal Alabama
Mobile, Alabama was founded by the French in 1702. So, it has more than three centuries of culture and tradition to uphold—and tradition still maintains a strong hold on this Gulf Coast city.
But like many mid-sized Southern cities (our own included), Mobile has mobilized for a new future. Music, art, innovative restaurants…all are contributing to revitalize Mobile, making it well worth a visit, even outside Mardi Gras season.
Mobile moves to the music
Those who like discovering and exploring new Southern bands will get a musical kick out of the growing SouthSounds Music and Arts Festival, happening April 2018 (exact dates TBA). All of Mobile’s newly happening downtown embraces the Festival, with participants moving from one venue to another to see multiple bands in one night.
The central plaza hosts performances both day and night, but the most fun comes from bar-hopping to see bands such as the fabulous and raucous Blackwater Brass, gender-bending She Returns From War and local heroes Infant Richard & the Delta Stones. The April 2017 Festival featured more than 65 artists and bands, so there is something for every musical fancy, from dirty Delta blues to rock to reggae to hip hop. You can learn more at southsoundsfest.com
Classical music fans are in for a treat as well, as the Mobile Symphony Orchestra, led by the charming and personable Scott Speck, is top notch. The MSO performs in downtown’s beautifully restored Saenger Theatre. Built in 1927 and restored beginning in the late ’90s, the Saenger also hosts opera, dance, rock concerts and other events. Visit them at mobilesaenger.com
From high-brow class to slithering Serpents
Mobile’s visual arts scene also bifurcates: The 95,000-square-foot Mobile Museum of Art, gorgeously situated a short drive outside the middle of town, has both an outstanding collection of more than 10,000 artworks and a stellar schedule of temporary exhibits.
For example, if you plan a visit between the end of January and the beginning of July 2018, you’ll see the iconoclastic “do it” exhibit, which depends on viewers’ participation in artists’ instructions, and was conceived in 1993 as a traveling exhibition that never ends.
The Museum also hosts an ongoing film series, live performances (called “Live at the Museum”), and a monthly Night Market showcasing local artists and craftspeople. Learn more at mobilemuseumofart.com
For something a little more underground, visit Serpents of Bienville on Government Street downtown. This gallery/artists’ co-op features art, books, jewelry…a little bit of everything, all with a distinctly New Southern Gothic vibe. For example, take this quote from one of the Serpents’ co-founders and contributors, Amanda Herman: “By the time I’ve reached my Golden Years, I would like at least one person to be able to say, ‘That old bat may be as crazy as a loon, but she can tell a damn good story.’” Visit them at serpentsofbienville.com
Mobile offers a growing list of good eateries
You still won’t do better for “fried, stewed or nude” oysters than the Mobile classic Wintzell’s Oyster House, smack-dab in the middle of everything on bustling Dauphin Street. wintzelloysterhouse.com.
Hipsters will want to head for the OK Bicycle Shop, which houses both the Dauphin Street Taqueria and Liquid Sushi Lounge. You can sit outside and order from both menus, plus one of the SouthSounds venues is right next door. Go ahead and shoot them an email to learn more at okbicycleshop@icloud.com
Another SouthSounds venue is across the street on Spring Hill Avenue. Moe’s Original BBQ features smoking techniques and sauces gleaned from a Tuscaloosa BBQ master, alongside Southern-style side dishes and family dessert recipes. Lunch with the locals at Callahan’s Irish Social Club, where a pint, a burger and friendly service are always on the menu. Online at callahanirishsocialclub.com
Foodies must book a table at the Kitchen On George, where Executive Chef Bryan Cates serves New Southern food that’s “fresh, locally sourced and seasonal” in a restored historic house. Recommended: the Chef’s Tasting Menus, 3-, 5-, or 7-course meals that feature the best of what the chef is cooking that day. Don’t overlook the nice wine choices and the creative cocktails. Get the details at kitchenongeorge.com
If you go...
The 400-mile drive from Chattanooga to Mobile is easily doable, and Delta also offers many flight options between the two airports. Once there, the Admiral Hotel Mobile is an ideal choice, located in downtown within walking distance of SouthSounds venues.
The restored ’40s hotel (now part of the Curio Collection by Hilton) has many charming touches, is a favorite with Mobile Symphony musicians, and boasts a pool, a fitness center, a fun bar and a recently updated full-service restaurant, Launch. Learn more at curiocollection3.hilton.com
The Mobile Bay Convention & Visitors Bureau can provide lots of helpful pre-trip planning info. Visit them at mobile.org