On the road with “The Bewitching of a Tennessee Hollow”
Forty miles north of Nashville, the Robertson County landscape is both beautiful and eerie: the lonesome shriek of a train whistle echoes through fertile fields stretching beneath an ominous gray, late-October sky that mingles with the smoke billowing from the peaks of barns curing tobacco.
More than 200 years ago, here in the unassuming hamlet of Adams, the Bell Witch was born—arguably the most famous ghost story in American history.
Chris Kirby and her husband, Walter, purchased the Bell property and its spirited soil in 1993. They conduct tours of a replica of the Bell family’s 1800s log cabin and nearby natural cave, a cave forged alongside the Red River over a million years ago that’s listed on the National Historical Registry.
From 1817 to 1821, John Bell and his family were tormented by something. Bizarre animals—a dog with the head of rabbit—roamed the farm. Unexplained noises rattled nerves: gnawing on bed posts, dragging of chains and dropping of stones on the floor. Then a voice emerged.
“I have been disturbed and made unhappy. I am the Spirit of a person who was buried in the woods,” reported an account. By other accounts, this essence declared herself the witch of a woman named Kate Batts.
Visions and voices advanced to inflicting physical harm. John Bell and his daughter Betsy received the brunt of abuse. Betsy’s hair was pulled, her body scratched and stuck with pins. John suffered from the feeling of a stick being stuck sideways in his throat.
News of this poltergeist spread, attracting crowds. Even Andrew Jackson paid a visit to the Bell family and commented, “I had rather face the entire British Army than to spend another night with the Bell Witch.”
It seemed “Kate” had two agendas: to kill John Bell and stop Betsy from marrying a neighbor named Joshua Gardner. On December 20, 1820, John Bell died from a mysterious poisoning. The witch took full credit for his death. Then in March of 1821, Betsy broke off her engagement with Gardner.
Crowds continue to flock to the site today. Thousands from across the U.S. visit annually.
“This year alone we had people here from the Ukraine, Scotland, Spain, Germany, and Australia,” Chris says. “I absolutely love being a part of this story. I have always had my heart in doing the tours and I have always had a passion for history.”
The tour begins at the mouth of the cave. The surrounding bluff is believed to be an ancient Choctaw Indian burial mound where those interned were buried sitting up in a fetal position. Archaeologists estimate the graves to be between 3,000 and 5,000 years old.
Right away, Chris debunks one popular theory.
“The main story most people grew up with was that John Bell cheated a neighbor woman by the name of Kate Batts on a land deal,” she says. “On her death bed she swore to come back to haunt him. Well, that story is not true. First of all, when John Bell died, Kate Batts was still alive and she lived for many years after him.”
Whatever this witch was, and persists through unexplained orbs of light to be, she might not be all bad.
“She was vicious when she wanted to be, but could also be kind, even spiritual,” Chris says. “They say every Sunday morning they could hear her singing gospel hymns in church right along with everyone else. They say she had the voice of an angel.”
She’s even a soothsayer, if you believe the documented conversations between her and John Bell, Jr., released by the Bell family in 1934.
“She described exactly how the end of our civilization is going to happen,” Chris says. “She said the temperature of the earth is going to start getting hotter and hotter. When the core of the earth gets to a certain temperature, there’s going to be a massive explosion and the planet will never be inhabited again.”
Roughly 40 books have been written about Bell Witch, as well as several movies, plays—even a metal band, Bell Witch.
“Believe it or not, they teach it in some of the schools here. This is part of Tennessee history,” Chris says. “I think this story has endured over time because it has never been debunked. All the people were real, some left their own written accounts of what they saw and heard. I think if this story was a hoax it would have died out many years ago.”
After the tour I sit down at a neighboring ballpark where a tractor pull competition grinds away. I skim William Gay’s essay, “Queen of the Haunted Dell.”
He writes, “It might be worth remembering that the Bell Witch saved her strongest malice for scoffers and debunkers. It might be wise to keep one’s disbelief to oneself.”
I press play on my audio recording taken during my tour. I can hear Chris speaking as we stand outside the mouth of the cave. After eight minutes, once we enter the cavern, the recording goes silent.
Jason Tinney is an author, actor, and musician. He can be seen locally blowing harmonica with singer/songwriter Eric Shelton. Jason loves a good ghost story.